Льюис Кэрролл в Новом Иерусалиме
Льюис Кэрролл. Русский дневник 1867 г. (пер. Н. Демуровой), выдержка о Новом Иерусалиме
«15 августа (четверг) Позавтракали около 6, чтобы уехать ранним поездом в Ново-Иерусалимский монастырь. Знакомый мистера Пенни, некий мистер Спайер, едущий к себе домой мимо монастыря, любезно предложил нас сопровождать. Мы полагали, что с легкостью уложимся в один день, но это оказалось заблуждением.
Часов до 10 мы ехали поездом. Затем наняли «тарантас» (такой вид приняла бы четырехместная коляска, если бы ее удлинить чуть не вдвое, а пружины вынуть) и тряслись в нем миль 14 по чудовищной дороге, хуже которой я в жизни не видывал. Она была вся в рытвинах, непролазной грязи и ухабах; мостами служили неотесанные бревна, кое-как скрепленные между собой. Хотя в тарантас были впряжены три лошади, нам понадобилось почти 3 часа, чтобы преодолеть это расстояние.
Дорогой мы последовали совету, который дал нам, кажется, мистер Мюр: попросить в крестьянской избе хлеба с молоком, что позволило бы нам войти в избу и увидеть, как живут крестьяне. В избе, возле которой мы остановились, находились двое мужчин, старуха и 6 или 7 мальчиков разного возраста. Черный хлеб и молоко, которые нам дали, оказались очень хороши; увидеть собственными глазами дом русского крестьянина было очень интересно. Я попытался сделать 2 наброска – изба снаружи и внутри; для последнего мы сгруппировали 6 мальчиков и маленькую девочку; фотография получилась бы чудесная, но моих способностей художника явно оказалось недостаточно, чтобы нарисовать эту группу. В деревню, прилегающую к монастырю, мы доехали лишь в 2, и тут же обнаружили, что для того чтобы вернуться вечером в Москву, следует двинуться в обратный путь в 3.
Тогда, торопливо осмотрев Храм Гроба Господня, мы послали сказать смотрителю, чтобы запрягали свежих лошадей, которые, как нас уверяли, там имеются. Но тут наши планы потерпели крушение; возвратясь на почтовую станцию, мы не застали никаких приготовлений к нашему отъезду – свежих лошадей не было – не было ничего, кроме выбившихся из сил лошадей, на которых мы приехали; возница и все остальные в один голос заявили (громко переговариваясь по-русски, что понимал один лишь мистер Спайер), что ехать невозможно. Мы покорились судьбе и попросили мистера Спайера дойти с нами до гостиницы, чтобы заказать нам обед, чай, постели и завтрак к 3 часам утра.
Ои заверил нас, что во всей деревне нет никого, кто говорил бы на каком-либо языке, кроме российского, и когда он уехал, распрощавшись с нами у дверей гостиницы, мы поняли, что впервые за все путешествие остались совсем одни – так, верно, чувствовал себя Робинзон Крузо на своем острове. Мы отправились в монастырь, куда нас отвел слуга из гостиницы, передавший нас в руки русского монаха – настоящего русака, для которого не существует никаких других языков, кроме русского.
Я показал ему фразу из моего разговорника: «Кто-нибудь здесь говорит по-немецки, по-французски или по-английски?» Тут колесо нашей фортуны внезапно повернулось – нас тотчас представили другому монаху, который говорил на превосходном и достаточно понятном французском языке и был настолько добр, что отдал себя в наше распоряжение – можно сказать, на весь оставшийся день.
Он провел нас по всему Храму Гроба Господня, примечательного главным образом тем, что он точно воспроизводит иерусалимский, а также показал нам библиотеку и ризницу; все это было очень интересно, но не содержало ничего необычного или примечательного – разве что искусственное страусовое яйцо, обнаруженное в ризнице. Если посмотреть в него на свет сквозь отверстие, проделанное в одном конце, можно увидеть казавшееся чуть ли не объемным цветное изображение женщины, склонившей колени перед распятием. Пора было возвращаться в гостиницу обедать, что мы и сделали, договорившись прежде с нашим добрым гидом, что по возвращении мы попросим его позвать.
Когда мы вернулись, монах отвел нас к себе, где вместо кельи с черепом, костями и проч. мы увидели уютную гостиную, в которой пили чай 2 дамы, мать и дочь, и джентльмен, который, как я полагаю, был отцом семейства. Старшая из дам очень неплохо говорила по-французски, а младшая – чрезвычайно хорошо по-английски. От нее мы узнали, что она преподает французский язык в одной из московских «гимназий»; она была явно хорошо образованна и умна. Оказаться в таком обществе было очень приятно, но все это произошло так внезапно и неожиданно, что казалось едва ли не сном.
После чая мы прошли все вместе по монастырю; нам показали комнаты, где обычно останавливается императорская семья, когда изредка приезжает сюда. Среди всего прочего мы видели «Вифлеем», пещеру, воспроизводящую ту, где, по преданию, родился Господь. Затем монах повел Лиддона и меня в лес, чтобы показать нам «Скит», куда удалился Никон после своего добровольного изгнания.
Выходя из монастыря, мы купили в монастырской лавочке у ворот небольшие копии «Богородицы Троеручицы», огромной иконы в одной из церквей, написанной в память о явлении Девы Марии, как она изображена на иконе, с третьей рукой, выглядывающей откуда-то снизу. В лесу мы видели «Иордан», «Купальню Вифезду», небольшое строение с настоящим прудом посредине и спускающимися к нему ступенями, и еще одно строение или часовню под названием «Колодец в Самарии» – но Скит более всего поразил наше воображение. Снаружи дом кажется небольшим, но в нем множество комнат, таких крошечных, что их и комнатами не назовешь, которые соединены низкими переходами и винтовыми лестницами; спальня около 6 футов в длину и в ширину; высеченное из камня ложе с каменным же изголовьем, длиной всего 5 футов и 9 дюймов, упирается одним концом в стену, где выбито углубление для ног; епископ, который был высокого роста, верно, всегда лежал, согнув ноги. Все здание похоже скорее на игрушечный дом, чем на настоящий; епископ, как видно, вел жизнь, полную непрестанных лишений, уступая в этом лишь своим слугам, жившим в крошечной келье, куда ведет дверь не более 4 футов высотой и едва приникает дневной свет.
Наши новые друзья присоединились к нам в лесу; мы вернулись вместе и вскоре, поблагодарив их за доброту, попрощались с ними и возвратились в гостиницу по-прежнему в тоске, ибо знали, что никто там не говорит ни на каком другом языке, кроме русского. Однако судьба снова оказалась к нам милостива: в дверях нас встретил хозяин и, кланяясь и жестикулируя, представил нам остановившегося в гостинице господина, который говорил по-французски. Он с чрезвычайной любезностью помог нам во всех наших нуждах и просидел, болтая, до 12.
Хозяин, бывший немного навеселе и к тому же явно не в своем уме, то и дело врывался в нашу комнату, жал нам руки и заверял в дружбе. Он был, как сообщил нам русский господин, дворянином, правда, третьего ранга, и потерял[27] миллионное состояние, повредившись от этого несчастья в рассудке. В последний раз мы беседовали с ним, когда он явился, чтобы выписать нам счет, прося, чтобы мы оплатили его вечером, так как мы уезжали рано утром. Он писал счет карандашом на клочке дрянной бумаги, выкрикивая каждый пункт по мере написания, а затем подал его мне для подсчета.
Что я и сделал, прибавив дополнительно пункт «за труди»[28] ; получив деньги, он встал, поклонился, крестясь, иконе в углу комнаты, потом схватил Лиддона за руку, расцеловал его в обе щеки и поцеловал ему руку; мне пришлось подвергнуться той же процедуре нежного прощания, после чего он удалился, предоставив нам наслаждаться, насколько это было возможно, сном – вернее, 3 1/2 часа сна, которые сократились до 2 ½, ибо наш русский знакомец явился для заключительной беседы. 16 августа (пятница) В 3 нас разбудили; после завтрака, тщетно прождав пролетку[29], мы отправились на поиски и увидели, что она выезжает из ворот «почтовой станции»; в 4 мы отбыли и еще 3 часа тряслись по ухабам – утешило нас только зрелище дивного восхода и звон бубенцов двуколки, которая ехала за нами по пятам почти всю дорогу».
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